Darrick Doerner

Passionnés ou inconscients ? Rêveurs ou poseurs ? De nombreux champions ont voulu pousser le surf à ses limites extrêmes en chevauchant les vagues les plus spectaculaires, les rouleaux les plus dangereux. Des hommes soudain minuscules face à des déferlantes de géant Riding giants est leur histoire. Mais impossible de la raconter sans conter celle du surf lui-même. Un sport devenu mondialement synonyme de jeunesse, d'aventure et de liberté.

L'épopée de trois jeunes gens à la recherche du frisson et de l'aventure, trois surfeurs de classe mondiale qui suivent leur instinct comme ils chevauchent les vagues et entament un périple qui va les conduire au plus fort de l’océan et de leur âme.

No special effects. No stuntmen. No stereotypes. No other feeling comes close. Surfers and secret spots from around the world are profiled in this documentary.

Winner of the 2005 Maui Film Festival's Best Short Film Documentary, this eye-popping video captures big-wave surfing at its most insane. Made by the folks who brought you Step in Liquid and Riding Giants, the film features tow-in trailblazers Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, Darrick Doerner and others taking on Peahi, Maui's enormous swells during the winters of '04 and '05. Fueling the action is a hot soundtrack courtesy of Pearl Jam, U2 and Beck.

This is a love story about a way of life that dates back to 12th Century Polynesia. The film honors all surfers and shapers that have dedicated their lives to being joyful and respectful of the ocean and the natural world because there just was no other way. Theirs was, and still is, an attitude that is universal, that transcends politics and greed, and expresses the ALOHA in their hearts.